Monday, October 28, 2013

Date Night!

I apologize that my idea of writing a couple posts over the Eid failed miserably! It was great to have the time off and Drew and I spent just about all of it getting our apartment situated, including getting everything moved out of his old house, stocking up on groceries, etc. Of course there was ample pool time :-)

This post will be fairly short but I wanted to share some photos with you all of what it's like to do an Egyptian date night. This is something that Drew has been planning on for a while now and it was absolutely wonderful! The past Thursday evening (the equivalent of Friday night in Egypt), Drew hired his boat guy.... yes, we have a boat guy. His name is Sayed and he's awesome! He never fails to have a boat meet us at the drop of a hat to take us across the Nile to the east bank of Luxor where all the fancy restaurants, grocery stores, etc. are located. Anyway, where was I... ah, yes! Drew had hired Sayed to take us out on a dinner time cruise on his boat. We stopped to pick up an awesome Egyptian feast on our way out and we then cruised down the Nile a good ways before Sayed cut the motor and we just coasted on the current all the way back to the Luxor ferry. It was truly perfect timing since just as we finished dinner the sun was setting over the palm trees. As we gently sailed downstream, Sayed made tea and coffee for us and we were able to stretch out on the top deck of the boat and watch the stars come out. It was a perfect evening.

I'm on de'Nile! 



The banana fields of Luxor... they're everywhere on the west bank

An Egyptian feast fit for a king! Roasted chicken, rice, potato chips... yes potato chips, bread to dip in tahina, three different kinds of stewed veggies and a fresh salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and what Drew discovered where eggplants stuffed with SUPER hot peppers... thankfully he spared me having to eat one : )
I will never get tired of this view...

Sunset on the Nile

We like boat cruises!

Life is good...

Sunday, October 13, 2013

The Villa with a Pool

Hello friends!
The first official week of work at ARCE is done and I'm happy to say that I made it through fairly unscathed. Everyone that I met was extremely kind and welcoming and I think this job has the potential to really evolve into some interesting things.

But, I promised you all some info and photos of where Drew and I are living, which we have been referring to all summer as "The Villa with a Pool"... we need to come up with a shorter name, I know. The villa is really beautiful and is located on a small street that runs along one of the irrigation canals for the village. The whole house is three levels, and we have the second level apartment, which is complete with a guest bedroom (hint, hint!), guest bathroom (2nd hint, hint!) and then a master. There's a large open room that you immediately enter into that serves as a living room, dining room, and then a rather decent sized kitchen at the far end of the apartment. Truly one of the best parts though is the balcony that runs the entire length of the apartment. I'll just let the picture from it do the talking...
Not a bad view to wake up to in the morning if I say so myself :-) Thankfully the house is situated so that the majority of the hot afternoon sun falls on the other side of the building, which keeps things mostly nice and cool. Of course if all else fails and you need to cool off after a long, hot day then there is this in the backyard...
Yes, so as you all can see life is terribly difficult here in Luxor... haha. In all seriousness, the apartment truly is amazing and Drew and I are very lucky to have an awesome roommate who we know on the first floor. He's the staff photographer from ARCE and has been really great in helping us settle in, meet with the landlord, etc. The house is a great example of one of the benefits of living in the third world. Clearly, this is something that probably most of us could never afford, and yet Drew and I are renting the apartment and pool for a fraction of the cost of our apartment in Cleveland. In saying that, there are certainly many challenges to living in a rural Egyptian village, but there are a lot of wonderful things about it too.

I'm hoping to write a couple posts throughout this week as it is the Eid al-Adha, and we have this week pretty much off of work. What is Eid al-Adha you might ask?? It's basically the Muslim equivalent of Christmas and the largest celebration of the year in Islam. This is also the week that Muslims travel to Mecca to perform the hajj. Drew and I saw a whole bunch of people traveling for the hajj while we were in Paris... they have to wear traditional white garments, so they're pretty easy to spot. Eid al-Adha is what I refer to as the Goat Eid, because it commemorates Abraham sacrificing a ram to God. For those of you interested in religion... in Christian teaching, God asks Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac to ensure that he is a loyal servant. At the last second, God stops Abraham and praises him for being so loyal that he would sacrifice his son. To commemorate the occasion, Abraham finds a ram and sacrifices it in place of Isaac.... which I'm sure Isaac was very thankful for! In Islam, the difference in the story, is that Abraham is asked to sacrifice his son Ishmael, instead of Isaac. In either case, there's still the sacrificing of a goat... hence my nickname of Goat Eid. This tradition of sacrificing an animal continues in the modern festival,... in fact Eid al-Adha translates into "the festival of sacrifice"... and most families do their best to secure a ram, goat, cow, water buffalo, etc. for the occasion. After the slaughter, families gather together and have a big feast (sorry no football) and are encouraged to share a portion of their meal with the poor. I try to avoid the slaughtering aspect of the feast, which as you can imagine is a little gory, but the feasting and sharing with the poor I think is a really wonderful celebration.

Anyway, to make a long story short, Drew and I will have a much more leisurely work week and are planning on doing some site-seeing in the area for fun. I'll be sure to post pictures and stories of these excursions for you all. For those of you in the US... enjoy some fall weather and activities for me! I would kill for some apple cider about now, haha. 

Sunday, October 6, 2013

Oh Champs Elysees...

Greetings everyone! Welcome to the second edition of Turn Left at the Camel! Hard to believe that I first started this blog nearly 3 years ago. In any event, this new and improved version of the blog should be much more frequently updated as I will not have as hectic of a work schedule AND it will be focusing on a new location in Egypt... Luxor!

As a quick update for those of you who haven't heard the full story on my new job, here's a quick synopsis... Drew and I are now working on the same ARCE (American Research Center in Egypt) project in Luxor. This project has been running for about 2 years now and has just started it's 3rd and final season. While Drew works mostly overseeing the archaeologists and activities in the field, I will spend most of my time working on writing, writing and more writing. I haven't completely determined yet what all I will be working on exactly, but my understanding is that there's quite a backlog in reporting, signage and other assorted projects that will keep me plenty busy. To read up on more of the project you should visit ARCE's website. If nothing else, you should read it because this project is largely funded by USAID, aka US tax dollars! This project in particular has kept hundreds of Egyptians employed in Luxor, whose main source of income, tourism, has all but completely vanished with the recent protests. These people are so thankful to be able to improve their job skills and at the same time continue to feed their families.

OK, so that's what all be doing for the next 10 months. Now on to where I'm living and the trip over here. Drew and I were fortunate enough to spend a couple of days in Paris en route to Luxor so that we didn't arrive as completely jet-lagged zombies. So for those of you who are interested, here's some photos of things that we saw while we were there:
Ah Paris...

One of Notre Dame's three rose windows



That's the Louvre in the background, which Drew and I spent an entire day wandering around...and still saw only a smidgen of all the art they have.

Um... there was a goat in the Tuilleries Gardens... so I had to take a picture of it : )



And I wouldn't be a very good Egyptologist if I had gone all the way to France and didn't take a picture of Ramesses II's obelisk

This is the Musee d'Orsay. An amazing museum focusing mostly on Impressionist/Post-Impressionist artwork. I had never been but I was so glad that Drew brought me here. I certainly didn't argue with staring at Renoir, Monet, Pissaro and Van Gogh!
OK I am now sleepy and will be heading off to bed. I'll continue the post tomorrow with pictures and an introduction to our beautiful villa in Luxor!